http://www.memoryexpress.com/Produc...mail&utm_campaign=Apr2014_24hrDailyDeal-Apr14
480 gig Sandisk SSD for $289 today only.
480 gig Sandisk SSD for $289 today only.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Anyone here have any experience with this mechanical keyboard?
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-keyboard-sgk4030gkcm1us?
It's currently the one calling my attention the most but would like some feedback for someone here if possible.
Also I've narrowed down my mouse options to the Deathadder 2013 and the Logitech 400S. Which one do you guys recommend most?
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-keyboard-sgk4030gkcm1us?
It's currently the one calling my attention the most but would like some feedback for someone here if possible.
Also I've narrowed down my mouse options to the Deathadder 2013 and the Logitech 400S. Which one do you guys recommend most?
You can also get 1TB Samsung EVO for $515 at MeMex if you price match at Newegg.
The one Razer mouse I've had felt really chintzy compared to a handful of Logitechs, including the G400s.
I'd look into the G502 also - testing people have done on its sensor make it sound incredibly accurate.
Keep in mind I have a palm grip rather than a claw grip so I've always gravitated toward Logitech since their larger ergonomic designs work really well with that - if you have a claw grip you might want to look into another suggestion from the OP.
BIGWORM
Member
Alright, guys, looking for suggestions on cooling this time. I currently have a Corsair H70 with a push configuation on a single 120mm (rear air intake). I'm torn between either an H100i or a Noctua NH-D14 on my 4670k. Should I just maybe stick with the H70 and setup a push-pull configuration on it instead with a couple NF-F12s? I'd be able to setup an H100 in my NZXT Phantom 410 top-mounted, more than like with a push-pull exhaust configuration with maybe a couple of Noctua NF-F12s for the pull
I've poured through multiple videos and reviews and still can't decide which solution to get. I know with the Noctua I'll have to take off/dremel down the heatspreaders on my Vengeance RAM, which I'm not really worried about. I'm already looking to delid my CPU soon and replace the cement with some CLU that's already been ordered.
I've poured through multiple videos and reviews and still can't decide which solution to get. I know with the Noctua I'll have to take off/dremel down the heatspreaders on my Vengeance RAM, which I'm not really worried about. I'm already looking to delid my CPU soon and replace the cement with some CLU that's already been ordered.
Don't worry about it. Bird in hand is worth the exact same motherboard in a bush.
Nothing. Get whatever is cheap and assume that it is already dead.
Agree with kennah, but for what it's worth I use the newest Western Digital My Book 4 TB and so far it's been fine, I would run tests on yours as soon as you get it though, I should have done that to be sure it won't freak out randomly. Don't assume your data is safe though, always have at least 1 relatively up to date backup somewhere.
Mech keyboard thread this way. Also linked from this thread's first post.
From your choice I assume you prefer plain and understated style as opposed to a gamer-tuning-spaceship-macrokey-lolz setup.
Short answer, CM boards are okay for a budget board, esp. tenkeyless. CM has a reputation for shoddy soldering and quality control, but that's what the warranty is for. That said, this particular model is apparently manufactured by Costar which also serves a lot of the better keyboard brands. For a full-size budget board, I'd personally look at Rosewill (also from the same factory). If you want to spend a little more for quality+style, Leopold / Ducky / Filco / WASD are the brands you should look at. Read the other thread.
That's the one I was looking at. May as well go for it, or perhaps buy two 2tbs.
Main reason for needing the external is that my 1tb iMac is about filled up and it is seriously getting bogged down. Hopefully moving 500+ gigs of music will help a bit
Lol I don't know what that metaphor means
But thanks, gonna stick with it. Also decided on my psu so my build is done!
Discovered that I need a molex connection for the fractal r4 and my modular psu has 4 molex on one cable. Barely going to save any space in the end lol. Might cut the other molex off...
Edit: can I just skip the R4 fan controller, plug my case fans into the motherboard and then use speed fan to control them? I believe my mobo has PWM support for all of the fans...
Diseased Yak
Gold Member
Tentative new build. Been running my current ([email protected], GTX 580, blah, etc) for 1.5 years now or so. Getting the itch. Yes, I know Haswell-E is coming and all that, but my plan is to buy something for 1440p now and then swap out a few pieces this time next year if necessary. Anyhoo, no budget to speak of, just throwing together something that'll be fun to mess with. Let me know if something looks outta whack. Planning on the white version of the Air 540. Kinda want one of those ROG mb's but dunno which one to pick really... Here's what I've come up with, something I can overclock a bit:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($319.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-OC ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($189.48 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($151.95 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 750GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($379.00 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($699.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($699.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($139.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair 860W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($169.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($129.99 @ Best Buy)
Monitor: QNIX Perfect Pixel QX2710 Matte 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($419.45 @ Newegg)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($186.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $3736.78
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-16 11:27 EDT-0400)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($319.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-OC ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($189.48 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($151.95 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 750GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($379.00 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($699.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($699.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($139.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair 860W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($169.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($129.99 @ Best Buy)
Monitor: QNIX Perfect Pixel QX2710 Matte 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($419.45 @ Newegg)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence STX 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($186.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $3736.78
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-16 11:27 EDT-0400)
My finished build! (As soon as I buy the CX600M)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $205.19)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (Purchased For $32.76)
Motherboard: Asus Z87-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (Purchased For $91.00)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Tactical 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (Purchased For $57.00)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (Purchased For $140.00)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R7 265 2GB Video Card (Purchased For $159.99)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (White) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $130.00)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $45.00)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro (OEM) (64-bit) (Purchased For $10.00)
Total: $870.94
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-16 12:01 EDT-0400)
Thanks for the help guys, I know I can be a pain when I'm buying shit. I'm super indecisive. That R4 really fucked up my budget lol
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $205.19)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (Purchased For $32.76)
Motherboard: Asus Z87-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (Purchased For $91.00)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Tactical 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (Purchased For $57.00)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (Purchased For $140.00)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R7 265 2GB Video Card (Purchased For $159.99)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (White) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $130.00)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $45.00)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro (OEM) (64-bit) (Purchased For $10.00)
Total: $870.94
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-16 12:01 EDT-0400)
Thanks for the help guys, I know I can be a pain when I'm buying shit. I'm super indecisive. That R4 really fucked up my budget lol
phxxBullet
Banned
Well, if it's possible, (also if it's a bit hard), and some1s going to build a complete new rig, I'd say wait for DDR4 RAM. New mobo, new CPU + new RAM.
But yeah, it's not worth to wait if u just want to upgrade something.
Isn't the price of DDR4 ram and all that new tech going to be $$$$$$$$? I remember when DDR3 first came out shit was expensive compared to DDR2 at the time.
Steelseries Rival is the correct choice.
We need to play together. I think I'm ranked 4 star or AK, something scrubby. I've got a group of pals on mumble, we could combine forces for full 5 man.
Because you're going baller level, I'm gonna nitpick extra hard here.
1) H100i is a waste unless you're delidding your processor. The TIM issue/TIM gap is not something a better cooler can fix. You will literally get the same max OC with a Hyper 212 as you would an H100i.
I'm running an EK Supremacy block. Prior to my delid, I was getting 80 degree temps with a modest voltage at 4.3 GHz.
Additionally, Devil's Canyon/Z97 is going to be out VERY soon, and they've promised to fix the TIM issue. You might consider waiting for that. Some pretty sweet Z97 boards have been teased.
2) That 860W is known to have coil whine issues. You want to go for the "i" series, or just go for the actual Seasonic 860W Plat. If you are planning on overclocking those 780 Ti's, you might consider a 1000W+ PSU. They can pull upwards of 300-400W a piece when you start putting volts into them
3) Get a Win 8 key online for $15-30, try reddit.com/r/softwareswap.
4) 1150/Z87 motherboards have almost zero impact on overclocking (outside of LN2). You're going to get the same performance out of an ITX board as you would a Maximus VI Extreme.
I do like Gigabyte boards the most just because of the BIOS though. It is a good board you have there. Since you're going to be using a dedicated sound card, there's no real need for one of the RoG boards. Half of the cool stuff they do is based around using onboard audio. You could go that route and just pick up a nice amp if you wanted. The Hero is the one to get in that case. The DAC on it is pretty good, it's just lacking power, which the amp would solve.
5) Speaking of your audio choice, if you have interest in virutalized surround, you should look at the Creative Z over the Xonar. Creative's surround solution is better than Dolby Headphone. Also consider what cans you will be using. Go for something with a lot of sound stage to get the most out of the virtualized surround. DT880s, AKG Q701s, or Sennheiser 598s.
Just get the 1 TB Crucial M550 instead of two separate ones.
I would also personally get the SoundBlaster ZxR as a soundcard.
I dont wanna spend over $100 for a keyboard. Hell, I feel guilty enough even considering it lol. Same thing with the mouse. Part of me just wants whatever cheap budget peripherals I can get but the other part kniws I need to get something solid that can last me a long time. I'll look into all the ones you mentioned though. Thank you!Mech keyboard thread this way. Also linked from this thread's first post.
From your choice I assume you prefer plain and understated style as opposed to a gamer-tuning-spaceship-macrokey-lolz setup.
Short answer, CM boards are okay for a budget board, esp. tenkeyless. CM has a reputation for shoddy soldering and quality control, but that's what the warranty is for. That said, this particular model is apparently manufactured by Costar which also serves a lot of the better keyboard brands. For a full-size budget board, I'd personally look at Rosewill (also from the same factory). If you want to spend a little more for quality+style, Leopold / Ducky / Filco / WASD are the brands you should look at. Read the other thread.
@sgjackson I actually like how that G502 looks. I've held the G500 and this is supposed to be much better so I'll definitely check this out as well. Thanks for the suggestion
@Mkenyon the Rival is just too big for my hands
Even without delidding, doesn't a good closed loop still have the advantage of being quieter at full CPU load than air coolers? (And equally silent when idling inside a good noise-damping case?) I've been reading up on the H1xx, Nepton 140XL, etc. with that in mind.
Logitech G602 is incredible for a wireless mouse, I feel no added latency, battery lasts for months on the performance setting/highest DPI. Love the ergonomics of it too!
Optical sensor too, which is a positive. Hasn't held me back in any competitive FPS as far as I can subjectively tell, granted I keep the extension cable/dongle in LOS with the mouse loll
It's liberating to not ever tug on a wire or have that get in the way sometimes!
Optical sensor too, which is a positive. Hasn't held me back in any competitive FPS as far as I can subjectively tell, granted I keep the extension cable/dongle in LOS with the mouse loll
It's liberating to not ever tug on a wire or have that get in the way sometimes!
You have to keep in mind the stuff they're using in reviews. If it's a given heat level, or if they're using totally different chips (Ivy-E, Nehalem, Sandy perhaps).
Lets say a Haswell chip is at 110W at 4.2 GHz, which might be just shy of the heatwall. A Hyper 212 isn't going to have any issues dissipating 110W of heat, even at low RPM.
Zip ties and wire racks for cable managment/monitors! The freedom of wireless without the drawbacks.
(older pic)
The normal Leopolds are around $100, occasionally less. Ducky's cheapest boards are also in that range.
BTW, do you actually need a numpad? If you don't, tenkeyless boards have much better ergonomics. And Elitekeyboards still has Leopold tenkeyless with Browns on sale for $90 while everything else is sold out. This exact model is what I recommend to people who aren't sure they want something else and don't have double the budget for a Topre.
https://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=leopold,tenkeyless
Ugh all these tenkeyless browns are tempting but I really want a backlit version, literally just white backlit, nothing fancy. Just so I can easily see the damn things at night sometimes. Hopefully the CM Quickire-i isn't a POS, because that seems promising.
That looks like the perfect keyboard. I rather not have the numpad and this one is very simplistic which is what I like
Any reason for the 2 evos?
The 1TB is cheaper than those two on amazon.
Samsung EVO 1TB for $454 on amazon
The Logitech G710+ was on sale recently for around 100$, forgot the price. I have that and its perfect for me. Love the media keys as well as the backlight.
Nostremitus
Member
Has OCZ's SSD quality gone up or become more consistent with the switch to Toshiba memory modules following the buyout/aquisition?
CPU: Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard : Asus H81M-A Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard £39.64
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 270X 2GB Video Card
Case: Zalman Z9 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer
@ £540
http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/3sLKJ
Can someone let me know if this is a good build for the price or not?
About to buy it, and just want to make sure from people smarter than me that it's sound!
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard : Asus H81M-A Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard £39.64
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 270X 2GB Video Card
Case: Zalman Z9 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer
@ £540
http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/3sLKJ
Can someone let me know if this is a good build for the price or not?
About to buy it, and just want to make sure from people smarter than me that it's sound!
Diseased Yak
Gold Member
Exactly what I needed to hear. Blessings be upon you, PC sensei.
As for those asking about the twin EVO's was just gonna put OS on one and games on another, but the comments about just getting a 1TB SSD are valid, that's how I'll roll.
That reminds me: the CODE keyboard is by far the best-looking backlit keyboard I've seen. If I was in the US, I'd grab one the second they are in stock (tenkeyless & clear switches, of course). It doesn't just look fantastic, but also has WASD's hardware-level settings that would be a huge deal for me.
(They do ship to my side of the globe, but with about $100 in shipping costs, taxes and customs duties, it's not exactly an impulse purchase anymore.)
I seriously don't think the Rapid-i is going to be cheap enough and good enough that it's worth waiting for, instead of just getting the CODE.
On the G710? Nice
Delt31
Member
guys - i just built my pc (i5 3570k andf gtx 780). Skipped on the 4770k b/c apparently it wasn't needed. Fast forward and watch dogs is requesting 4770k to get ultra. Thoughts on selling the i5 3570k and getting the 4770k for 270 (microcenter)? Prob can get 180 for the i5 3570 on ebay so net will be 100-120 cost for the upgrade. Worth it? Will I see any other diff besides watch dogs? I don't encode so this would be really internet surfing, extracting files, etc.
Are you factoring in the selling fees?
Why not wait and see how your pc actually performs when Watch Dogs comes out?
3570k is a different socket to the 4770k, unless you have a 4670k? If not, you'd need to change motherboard too.
Also consider that it's probably too early to be panicking about Watch Dogs, you may be happy with the performance with your current CPU, especially after the drivers are optimised over time.
Guys, I have a technical problem and I thought it would be a good place to ask. Hope it's ok.
So I moved house a few weeks ago, from a house in a rural area to an apartment in a pretty big city. I thought I would take the opportunity to slowly setup a nice modern environment, with good internet speed, media center, etc.
Well, turns out the wi-fi signal of all things was better in my old house ! ( °_°)
I didn't make anything of it at the time because I was too busy setting up the new place and in the middle of changing my ISP plan and modem, but... a few days have now passed, the new modem and plan are here, and I still have the shittiest wi-fi signal I have ever seen.
The modem is in the lounge, I sleep not ten fucking meters from it and all I get in the bedroom with Ipad, Vita, or anything is a signal constantly changing between good, weak or bad. I even experienced some disconnections.
So what gives ? I'm at a loss here.
So I moved house a few weeks ago, from a house in a rural area to an apartment in a pretty big city. I thought I would take the opportunity to slowly setup a nice modern environment, with good internet speed, media center, etc.
Well, turns out the wi-fi signal of all things was better in my old house ! ( °_°)
I didn't make anything of it at the time because I was too busy setting up the new place and in the middle of changing my ISP plan and modem, but... a few days have now passed, the new modem and plan are here, and I still have the shittiest wi-fi signal I have ever seen.
The modem is in the lounge, I sleep not ten fucking meters from it and all I get in the bedroom with Ipad, Vita, or anything is a signal constantly changing between good, weak or bad. I even experienced some disconnections.
So what gives ? I'm at a loss here.
You should go for low profile RAM like this, because I'm almost sure, that those sticks won't fit under your Hyper 212 CPU cooler. Also, I'm not sure about the Corsair CX PSU. I often get the feeling, that people in this thread, don't like it.
Edit:
Sounds like you should ask your ISP for a better modem/router. You may have gotten a broken unit.
Whats your ISP and what modem did you get? Maybe someone has the same or a similiar one and can help you with it.
The city apartment would have way more wifi interference, due to way more networks and other electronics, and the walls are most likely thicker. You need to get a better router, one with stronger and further signal strength. Also, move to 5GHz frequency, if possible, where there is way less traffic, and thus, thus interference.
That's the crazy thing. The old modem and the new one have the same wi-fi issue. I used the old one for years to transfer data from one floor to the other... and in this apartment the signal can't even pass ten meters ?
I had hope the new modem would fix the problem as it's a relatively new model from my ISP, but so far I just had the great pleasure to see a 1.5go download on Vita be estimated at 100 hours !
The new modem characteristics seemed good though :-(
WiFi dual band
2.4 GHz IEEE 802.11 b/g/n
5 GHz IEEE 802.11 a/n
4 full routed GigaEthernet ports
@knitoe
Yup, if this wasn't already apparent I'm a noob in this domain. So you are saying that I can change the signal frequency myself and that there will be less interferences. Will it further the signal too ? Streaming was a real part of my ideal setup and in this state I'm totally screwed. NAS, Nvidia Shield, streaming to Ipad, I can forget all of this.
They just list 4770K cause it's the newest Intel chip. Clock for clock, there's like a 3-6% difference between your processor and the 4770K.
Don't base purchase decisions on specs from devs.
This should be the next thread title.
Especially when they put the 8350 on there next to the 4770K, and yet the 2500K, and even the 875K are better gaming processors than the 8350. Silly.
Delt31
Member
I have a Asus P8Z77-V motherboard and a 3570k cpu. Are you saying I would need to change the mobo? If so, forget that.
Yes, the equivalent chip for a Z77 motherboard is a 3770k, but it's not worth it.
You can trust me, I have the exact same stuff as you (3570k and 780...high five!)
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