neurosisxeno
Member
How true is the bolded portion? ...I picked up a 760 last year and it seemed more on par with the 670; just barely. Maybe my card sucked?
It's not true. A 760 is a slightly cut down 670 and a 770 is a 680 flat out.
How true is the bolded portion? ...I picked up a 760 last year and it seemed more on par with the 670; just barely. Maybe my card sucked?
Skyrim handles memory very awkwardly, and I think the numbers people get are misleading. You have to remember that Skyrim is by default a 32-bit application which means it can never truly access more than 3GB--that's combined system and video memory. Yes, you can activate LAA but that doesn't actually make it a full 64-bit application, it just kind of stagers the way memory is handled. It's kind of like HyperThreading for memory management--with hundreds of times more errors.
See above. Also, there are zero recorded occurances of 4/6/8GB variations of cards offering performance gains over their 2/3/4GB versions. The cards are optimized in such a way that they can only effectively move memory around within X amount of space. Doubling it is generally pointless.
So I was able to get my 4670k OC to 4.5ghz with 1.25v, and XMP enabled (1600mhz) that's decent right? Should I just stop there?
Also, how would one describe coil whine? Is it like this high pitched sound you hear? I hear something, but don't know if it was there in my old computer or not, and I can only hear it when I turn my head at certain angles..
Please provide benchmarks. (This isn't me being a jerk, we've long been researching this and haven't found any definitive proof.For a 32 Bit windows program to use 3 GB of RAM it must be large address aware in the first place (and to claim that a program supporting LAA makes it full of errors is wildly wrong!).
There is tons of recorded instances of a graphics card with more VRAM out performing one with less, the one with less just needs to have it's VRAM fill up and start swapping over the PCIe bus.
And graphics cards with more VRAM can make use of it fine.
Not necessarily true. Some motherboards can be a pain in the ass to get working. You can really stack the deck in your favour by buying the right gigabyte and nvidia stuff.It is quite easy once you learn how to do it. It is a simple OS install (create a install USB using UniBeast) + drivers later (using Multibeast). However, if you have problem, which is likely, you'll need patience and google.
www.tonymacx86.com, check the guides.
The right hardware is just an intel CPU.
It's not as foolproof as Windows but it has gotten a lot easier with mavericks. The tonymac site from the other poster is the place to go. Their hardware and install guides are solid.So, anyone here have any experience building a Hackintosh?
Is it a pain in the ass and not worth the trouble or is it almost as easy to set up as a fresh Windows build?
I'm close to selling my Macbook Pro, which I will use the money to build a new PC...and this thought just entered my mind so I was just curious. I'm thinking just getting the right hardware would be pretty limiting anyways so don't bother?
Please provide benchmarks. (This isn't me being a jerk, we've long been researching this and haven't found any definitive proof.
Heh, things always slip my mind when I'm working on builds at work, it happens. Good that he's getting the OS so that $20 can be put into something else.Can't believe the MB slipped my mind. The OS I believe he'll get by using his .edu address.
As for the 4GB 760, I threw that in there cause it was only $40 more.
To save a few would it be best to go with an AMD build?
I'll pass this on either way.
Much appreciated.
What's the general consensus on GAF for what's the preferred method to apply thermal paste?
So, anyone here have any experience building a Hackintosh?
Is it a pain in the ass and not worth the trouble or is it almost as easy to set up as a fresh Windows build?
I'm close to selling my Macbook Pro, which I will use the money to build a new PC...and this thought just entered my mind so I was just curious. I'm thinking just getting the right hardware would be pretty limiting anyways so don't bother?
So, anyone here have any experience building a Hackintosh?
Is it a pain in the ass and not worth the trouble or is it almost as easy to set up as a fresh Windows build?
I'm close to selling my Macbook Pro, which I will use the money to build a new PC...and this thought just entered my mind so I was just curious. I'm thinking just getting the right hardware would be pretty limiting anyways so don't bother?
Have a random question. I have an i5-3470. Would it make sense to save and get a 3570K or just wait until I do a new build in a few years?
It's not true. A 760 is a slightly cut down 670 and a 770 is a 680 flat out.
Hey PC GAF, what do you think of this:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Refurbished Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Open Box Asus Maximus VI Hero ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($139.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill AEGIS 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($259.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($56.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card ($559.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($113.53 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Cooler Master V850 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($157.70 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: QNIX Perfect Pixel QX2710 Matte 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($419.45 @ Newegg)
Total: $2157.60
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-20 11:49 EDT-0400)
It's basically the Enthusiast Build with a few of the recommended upgrades.
My comments / questions:
- I was going to get a Corsair H60 but a refurbished H100i from Newegg is the same price. I shouldn't have to worry about it being a refurb, right?
- Is there anything I should look out for in an Open Box mobo? My local Micro Center says they have two at that price and they are "Complete". I can always get a new Hero for $50 more or Micro Center has the Asus Z87 Pro in a combo with the 4770k for a little over $400. Any suggestions? If I get the Hero any good recommendations for wifi and Bluetooth solutions?
- The 1.35v and 1.5v memory was exactly the same price, I went with 1.35v. Is that the right thing to do?
- For video card I went with the EVGA Classified primarily because it seems to have a great cooling solution and had good reviews that I saw. However, it is about $50 more than most other GTX 780s. I want to OC but value a relatively quiet machine. Any other GTX 780 cards that can be OCed just as much without getting too loud? Is this worth the 10% price premium?
- I am still really torn between the Nanoxia DS1 and this R4. I heard Nanoxias have better fans and are quieter and cooler but I kind of want a window, lol. How does the Titanium color look in person?
- The 850W PSU was only about $5 more than the 700W, decided to just go with the bigger one for future proofing and I suppose the extra overhead will keep it cooler and quieter. Originally, I was looking at the Seasonic X and Corsair AX PSUs but I take it that this CoolerMaster is the same basic design and is quieter and costs a lot less than either of those?
- Is the QNIX monitor really that good? The Anandtech review did not seem glowing (I believe they said that pre calibration it is washed out and the 120hz thing is not real). Is calibration easy? What might be a better choice? Does it make sense to go with the Pixel Perfect version?
Any input is appreciated, I would like to purchase all the components this week.
I guess I will just grab a Windows licence from reddit. Should I go with Windows 7 or 8.1? I can just download either on a flash drive right? Do I even need an optical drive in my new PC? I have a Blu Ray burner in my laptop and feel like I've maybe used it half a dozen times in four years.
Anything else that I am going to need?
Thanks!
Seasonic X and Corsair AX PSUs are in a different league lol.
I'd go Noctua D14 for silence too.
Hey PC GAF, what do you think of this:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Refurbished Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Open Box Asus Maximus VI Hero ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($139.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill AEGIS 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($259.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($56.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card ($559.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($113.53 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Cooler Master V850 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($157.70 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: QNIX Perfect Pixel QX2710 Matte 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($419.45 @ Newegg)
Total: $2157.60
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-20 11:49 EDT-0400)
It's basically the Enthusiast Build with a few of the recommended upgrades.
My comments / questions:
- I was going to get a Corsair H60 but a refurbished H100i from Newegg is the same price. I shouldn't have to worry about it being a refurb, right?
- Is there anything I should look out for in an Open Box mobo? My local Micro Center says they have two at that price and they are "Complete". I can always get a new Hero for $50 more or Micro Center has the Asus Z87 Pro in a combo with the 4770k for a little over $400. Any suggestions? If I get the Hero any good recommendations for wifi and Bluetooth solutions?
- The 1.35v and 1.5v memory was exactly the same price, I went with 1.35v. Is that the right thing to do?
- For video card I went with the EVGA Classified primarily because it seems to have a great cooling solution and had good reviews that I saw. However, it is about $50 more than most other GTX 780s. I want to OC but value a relatively quiet machine. Any other GTX 780 cards that can be OCed just as much without getting too loud? Is this worth the 10% price premium?
- I am still really torn between the Nanoxia DS1 and this R4. I heard Nanoxias have better fans and are quieter and cooler but I kind of want a window, lol. How does the Titanium color look in person?
- The 850W PSU was only about $5 more than the 700W, decided to just go with the bigger one for future proofing and I suppose the extra overhead will keep it cooler and quieter. Originally, I was looking at the Seasonic X and Corsair AX PSUs but I take it that this CoolerMaster is the same basic design and is quieter and costs a lot less than either of those?
- Is the QNIX monitor really that good? The Anandtech review did not seem glowing (I believe they said that pre calibration it is washed out and the 120hz thing is not real). Is calibration easy? What might be a better choice? Does it make sense to go with the Pixel Perfect version?
Any input is appreciated, I would like to purchase all the components this week.
I guess I will just grab a Windows licence from reddit. Should I go with Windows 7 or 8.1? I can just download either on a flash drive right? Do I even need an optical drive in my new PC? I have a Blu Ray burner in my laptop and feel like I've maybe used it half a dozen times in four years.
Anything else that I am going to need?
Thanks!
What makes them so much better? I thought the CoolerMaster was made by SeaSonic as well and shared the same design as the other two.
That's what I thought. I had it on 4Ghz before. Just needed some thoughts. This is my first build but next time I will consult here and do it right. Skimped on the mobo and the cpu.No point, if you have a Z series motherboard you can get your CPU to 3.8GHz all core Turbo, and maybe a little higher depending on how good your motherboard is.
Be very wary of open box motherboards, they're very prone to issues and people in general are scumbags who will return items because "reasons" (lies).
The overclockable monitors with multiple inputs drop frames, because they have a scaler. If you get a DVI-only model then it will do true 120Hz (if it overclocks that high).
You are right, it's made by Seasonic, didn't know any CM PSUs where using Seasonic as their OEM. Good PSU, although way more watts than you need if you don't plan to SLI. A Seasonic 550w would do otherwise.
Is there any drawback of having an excessive PSU other than cost?
CPU: Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard : MSI H81M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card
Case: Zalman Z9 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer
Decent OC, if temperatures permit you may want to test the waters further before settling with final clocks and volts.
Coil whine sounds like a high pitched noise and is usually intermittent.
Taken more feedback from you guys and others, I'm sorry for posting here a lot, I just want to run this last through people who know what they're on about.
http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/3uv8Z
Does this look good to you guys?
Thanks for your time.
Eh, I ran prime95 for a bit and it crashed. The temperatures were more than fine, staying around high 50c. Is it that important that the comp is stable with prime? It's not exactly a real world indicator. 1.25v and only 4.5ghz makes me sad
Dammit, it's probably coil whine I hear. I guess I will rma it. What a damn pain
Do you really need the disc drive? Cut the PSU to the 500w one http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/
I didn't see the harm considering how inexpensive it is. You never know and all that.
I've been umming and ahhing about the PSU - I thought I'd only need a 500w one personally, but someone recommended a 600w one, as apparently it might improve performance. I've never heard of a PSU making a difference before!
Can you tell this is my first build?
Prime95 does matter, its just doing a lot of work quickly to see how likely a failure is, hence the high temps and load. Its not high temps and load that is causing the failure in this case, its just not stable. Your temps at 50c are cold, so try bumping the vcore a couple notches.
It doesn't improve performance. 500w is all you'll need for a single GPU.
It's inexpensive yes but the DVD drive is still money that doesn't need spend. It could get you a nicer case for instance like the Corsair 200R or a better motherboard. With the ability to install Windows through USB I can't see a single reason for needing one.
I thought so - Glad it's been confirmed that Reddit is officially full of muppets
Maybe I'm just not for an all-digital future just yet! Personally it's an expenditure I don't' mind making, is all.
Thanks for the advice though man!
r/buildapc has a lot of good advice but a monumental amount of bad advice thrown around too. What we lack here in quantity we make up for in quality
Fair do's! Just don't blame me when you never use it Motherboard I might look at again. Might be worth using the money saved on the PSU to bump it up slightly.
500w PSU enough for a GTX 770 + 4770k + 240GB SSD + 1TB HDD + 1TB HDD?
Been out the graphic card loop for a couple of years, I have a 560 Ti Frozr, looking to spend around $200, anything worth upgrading to or should I just hold off?
Been out the graphic card loop for a couple of years, I have a 560 Ti Frozr, looking to spend around $200, anything worth upgrading to or should I just hold off?
Well I just installed my brand new Z87X-D3H, i5 4670k and 16gigs of ram without reformating my PC (Yes, I like to live dangerously lol).
Win 8.1 went into "First boot" mode on the first boot setting up my devices and updating my metro apps. Took like 4-5 min on the first boot but after that everything is going smoothly. Had 3 errors in the device manager, 2 of them went away after installing the drivers from the Gigabyte website. Only thing left is an "Unknown USB Device" which it looks like is my front panel USB3 I bought a couple of months ago. It's weird cause I don't remember it having any special drivers.
Could be the motherboard USB 3 drivers.
Think I'll take the quality anyday cheers
I take full responsibility!
Any recommendations on the motherboard? I'm not sure what difference they make
Get one with 600watts, just in case. The things just add up really fast. 2 HDDs+1SSD, add the drive. Not really room for light OCing.Starting to plan out in my mind my Sept - Oct upgrade/new build. Decided upon mini ITX. It is time to retire the full tower build.
500w PSU enough for a GTX 770 + 4770k + 240GB SSD + 1TB HDD + 1TB HDD?
That is stretching it.