• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2024. 240 Hz OLEDs, PCI-Gen5, Path Tracing & Ray Reconstruction.

Soodanim

Member
I haven't tried a wired connection yet, it's a pain to do because of the router's location but I will try that tonight. I had tried to use a wifi analyzer app on my phone, which shows my 5ghz network at around - 50 to - 60.

When I did the fresh install, I ran a speedtest using fast.com with Edge and I got 220mbps. A few minutes later I'd installed chrome, and the speeds have dropped. I'm not sure whether the speeds dropped the way they were doing anyways, or if somehow installing chrome is the issue? I have restarted the PC a couple times and only run Edge to do a speedtest, and the speeds were very low. THe only two programs I've installed since the fresh system install are Steam and Chrome.



I'd tried to change some of the WiFi settings, so changing from "auto" channel to specific ones, trying the "low" vs "high" setting on the 5ghz network, changing from a/n/ac to n/ac etc. I changed everything back to what I'd found it as - nothing seemed to work in any case but as you can probably tell I don't really know what I'm doing.
Chrome reducing speeds like that is definitely a coincidence. There is no way it could have that sort of effect.

The drop is some sort of throttling applied somewhere along the chain, whether that's your ISP, your router, or your hardware. Given what you've tried, it might be worth speaking to your ISP and seeing if they can find any issues their side.
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
I will post my doubt again:

I currently have the following build and I have a 1440p 165Hz monitor as of now.:

- Intel Core i9-10900K
- Asus ROG STRIX Z490-E GAMING ATX LGA1200
- G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16
- ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME SSD
- Gigabyte GAMING OC GeForce RTX 3080 10GB
- be quiet! Pure Base 500DX ATX Mid Tower Case
- Corsair RM850 (2019) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply

I don’t know why but it struggles with MSFS2024 so I was thinking on a new build similar to this one:

- AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D
- ASRock X870E Taichi Lite EATX AM5 Motherboard
- Acer Predator Vesta II RGB DDR5 6000MHz 64GB 2x32GB CL30 Plata
- Gigabyte GeForce RTX 5080 Gaming OC GDDR7 DLSS 4 (I cannot justify the overprice of almost €1,270.00 for a Gigabyte AORUS GeForce RTX 5090 Master)
- Acer Predator GM7 2TB Disc SSD 7400MB/S NVMe PCIe 4.0 M.2 Gen4
- Corsair HX1000i 1000W 80 Plus Platinum Modular or Corsair HX1200i 1200W 80 Plus Platinum Modular
- NZXT H7 Flow 2024 Cristal Tempered USB 3.2
- Be Quiet! Pure Loop 2
- NZXT F280 RGB Core (is this needed?)

I'm doubting on whether going for a new build or upgrading the CPU, GPU and RAM of the existing one. If I go for the new build, is it a balanced one?
Unless you have it in hand a 5080 is going to be difficult to come by. You may want to wait and see how the 9070XT performs.

If you can find a 5080 it will (likely) be the better performaning card.
 
Chrome reducing speeds like that is definitely a coincidence. There is no way it could have that sort of effect.

The drop is some sort of throttling applied somewhere along the chain, whether that's your ISP, your router, or your hardware. Given what you've tried, it might be worth speaking to your ISP and seeing if they can find any issues their side.

I agree re Chrome, I expect Edge would have shown the same speed reduction after a few minutes as well.

Re: the ISP point, does that still apply if all my other devices are running just fine? Phone, laptop, smart TV and everything else runs at healthy speeds without any interruption or issue. I also forgot to mention I tried using my phone's hotspot network, with the same results.

Tonight I'll be looking into BIOS settings and trying an ethernet connection.
 

Soodanim

Member
I agree re Chrome, I expect Edge would have shown the same speed reduction after a few minutes as well.

Re: the ISP point, does that still apply if all my other devices are running just fine? Phone, laptop, smart TV and everything else runs at healthy speeds without any interruption or issue. I also forgot to mention I tried using my phone's hotspot network, with the same results.

Tonight I'll be looking into BIOS settings and trying an ethernet connection.
Ah, I forgot about the other devices. I don't see how or why your ISP would limit for one device, so that's that possibility crossed off the list.

I'm now home with a chance to do some proper googling, and found a few bits that may be of use. Some suggest Windows/drivers could be the culprit.


If the fixes in the above link are of no help and nothing stands out in the BIOS, then it might be worth setting up a USB stick with Linux on as an alternative OS to test with.


This link from last year suggests BIOS won't be the issue, but that it could be a physical problem with something causing interference with your WiFi receiver(s). Replies also have a Powershell script that fixed that guy's problem.

More links that may or may not be useful:
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/t...le-usb-wifi-adapter-download-speeds.18974119/ (same dude as the above powershell issue guy by the look of things)
 
Ah, I forgot about the other devices. I don't see how or why your ISP would limit for one device, so that's that possibility crossed off the list.

I'm now home with a chance to do some proper googling, and found a few bits that may be of use. Some suggest Windows/drivers could be the culprit.


If the fixes in the above link are of no help and nothing stands out in the BIOS, then it might be worth setting up a USB stick with Linux on as an alternative OS to test with.


This link from last year suggests BIOS won't be the issue, but that it could be a physical problem with something causing interference with your WiFi receiver(s). Replies also have a Powershell script that fixed that guy's problem.

More links that may or may not be useful:
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/t...le-usb-wifi-adapter-download-speeds.18974119/ (same dude as the above powershell issue guy by the look of things)

Thanks man! I'll try some of the solutions in those links and report back. Really appreciate you taking the time to help.
 

lachesis

Member
Just pulled the (stress) trigger for a new build to replace my current living room PC. (i7 3930k from late 2011, which was my workstation till early last year)

CPU - 7800x3d (from my main rig, and main rig will be getting 9950x, as it's more of a workstation)
MB - Asus TUF B850 Plus WIFI
RAM - 2x16gb G. Skill Trident DDR5-6000 cl 30
NVME - Samsung 990 Pro PCIE Gen4 2TB
Cooler - Peerless Assasin 120mm (from my main rig, and main rig will get the Noctua NH-D15 G2)
GPU - Asus Dual RX6600 (my current one - lol) - will upgrade to.. 5070/Ti or RX9070/XT in March, depending on the price/performance. I may move my 4080 Super from main rig as I like Nvidia's RTX HDR implementation.
PSU - Corsair HX750 (from current living room PSU)

To game on my 65" LG OLED. It does not support 4k 120hz nor VRR, so I think mid-high range GPU would be fine.

Question:
Has anyone tried one of those CD Key websites that sell Windows 11 OEM license for cheap? I've seen Youtube reviewers were advertising... Are they legit?
 

MikeM

Member
Just pulled the (stress) trigger for a new build to replace my current living room PC. (i7 3930k from late 2011, which was my workstation till early last year)

CPU - 7800x3d (from my main rig, and main rig will be getting 9950x, as it's more of a workstation)
MB - Asus TUF B850 Plus WIFI
RAM - 2x16gb G. Skill Trident DDR5-6000 cl 30
NVME - Samsung 990 Pro PCIE Gen4 2TB
Cooler - Peerless Assasin 120mm (from my main rig, and main rig will get the Noctua NH-D15 G2)
GPU - Asus Dual RX6600 (my current one - lol) - will upgrade to.. 5070/Ti or RX9070/XT in March, depending on the price/performance. I may move my 4080 Super from main rig as I like Nvidia's RTX HDR implementation.
PSU - Corsair HX750 (from current living room PSU)

To game on my 65" LG OLED. It does not support 4k 120hz nor VRR, so I think mid-high range GPU would be fine.

Question:
Has anyone tried one of those CD Key websites that sell Windows 11 OEM license for cheap? I've seen Youtube reviewers were advertising... Are they legit?
Yep I used one. No issues at all. Can’t tell you which one though- was two or so years ago
 

lachesis

Member
Yep I used one. No issues at all. Can’t tell you which one though- was two or so years ago
Thank you - I actually looked into our corporate discount site, and it has a link to someplace that sells Windows 11 Pro OEM licensing around 30-some dollars. I purchased my office thru them a couple times before, so I think I'm going to give them a try!
 

MikeM

Member
Thank you - I actually looked into our corporate discount site, and it has a link to someplace that sells Windows 11 Pro OEM licensing around 30-some dollars. I purchased my office thru them a couple times before, so I think I'm going to give them a try!
Found one:


vdva2LG.jpeg
 

Yerd

Member
Thanks man! I'll try some of the solutions in those links and report back. Really appreciate you taking the time to help.
I would say try most of those in that "redirecting" link he provided. The very last post has some good tips. I think some of them probably won't change anything though. As you've done a fresh install, that SHOULD leave out any errant windows setting. IMO. No need to do any rollbacks.

My focus would be on the router/modem or the USB stick.

If you can get a wired connection test done and it shows you that you have full speed there, then you narrow down the culprit even more.


Also, when did this start? Were you at normal speeds and then you did something or something happened and then this started happening?
 
Ah, I forgot about the other devices. I don't see how or why your ISP would limit for one device, so that's that possibility crossed off the list.

I'm now home with a chance to do some proper googling, and found a few bits that may be of use. Some suggest Windows/drivers could be the culprit.


If the fixes in the above link are of no help and nothing stands out in the BIOS, then it might be worth setting up a USB stick with Linux on as an alternative OS to test with.


This link from last year suggests BIOS won't be the issue, but that it could be a physical problem with something causing interference with your WiFi receiver(s). Replies also have a Powershell script that fixed that guy's problem.

More links that may or may not be useful:
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/t...le-usb-wifi-adapter-download-speeds.18974119/ (same dude as the above powershell issue guy by the look of things)

I would say try most of those in that "redirecting" link he provided. The very last post has some good tips. I think some of them probably won't change anything though. As you've done a fresh install, that SHOULD leave out any errant windows setting. IMO. No need to do any rollbacks.

My focus would be on the router/modem or the USB stick.

If you can get a wired connection test done and it shows you that you have full speed there, then you narrow down the culprit even more.


Also, when did this start? Were you at normal speeds and then you did something or something happened and then this started happening?

Update: Tried ethernet and I'm getting a full gig down. Unplugged the ethernet and we're back to nothing. So, wired works.

This has been an issue since I bought the PC. I bought it on FB marketplace (some on here said do your own AM5 build instead, maybe I should have listened..). I bought it sometime in November. Only getting around to addressing this issue now.

I'll try some of the links that Soodanim Soodanim posted next. I also have a USB wifi adapter that I think I'll try tonight, although I'm really not expecting that to make any difference.
 

Yerd

Member
My mistake, I thought you said a usb wifi adapter, it was a pci card you bought. The wifi speedup while the monitor sleeps is a weird issue. Not something I've ever come across. I know there are some power settings to throttle when asleep but not the other way around. After a clean install, I would think any network setting like that is back to default.

Whatever setting, if it is a setting, would persist after a fresh windows install. Would point me to router or modem or isp. You've probably exhausted my knowledge. I'm a tinkerer and solve these kinds of problems fucking around with the settings. I may not know what all the settings do specifically, but I can infer usually what they might do just by reading their name and where they are located.


Here's my solution to if it was my issue. Wired connection. You already solved it, lol. Figure out how to best wire your room and be done with it. Move the gear to your pc if you can't wire the walls/ceiling.


Just a thought as I was about to post. Have you disabled the onboard wifi, if you are using the pci card? Are you certain you're connecting with the new card?
 

64gigabyteram

Reverse groomer.
my next few PC upgrades will just be measures taken to improve the sound of my PC- making it quieter.
i ordered a new CPU air cooler, and i'm going to replace all the harddrives with ssds at the earliest convenience

these 2 purchases alone should turn my PC into a quiet lil assassin rather than the screamin berzerker it is right now
 

twilo99

Member
my next few PC upgrades will just be measures taken to improve the sound of my PC- making it quieter.
i ordered a new CPU air cooler, and i'm going to replace all the harddrives with ssds at the earliest convenience

these 2 purchases alone should turn my PC into a quiet lil assassin rather than the screamin berzerker it is right now

How many fans do you have in your case besides the CPU/GPU combo?
 

lachesis

Member
Finished my build. I decided not to install that Armory Crate this time - but somehow ASUS's official website's latest bluetooth driver and wifi driver wasn't working.
Was fiddling around several hours to figure out what went wrong... and found older WHQL version driver (hidden) worked.. I guess sometimes latest driver =/= solution!

I relegated my old 6600 to my child's computer. I do have a couple of old GTX gpus laying around, but decided to go with 7800x3d's igpu for now, until 5070ti or 9070xt... but I have pretty bad feeling regarding availability of those 2 cards too. :(
 

Soodanim

Member
my next few PC upgrades will just be measures taken to improve the sound of my PC- making it quieter.
i ordered a new CPU air cooler, and i'm going to replace all the harddrives with ssds at the earliest convenience

these 2 purchases alone should turn my PC into a quiet lil assassin rather than the screamin berzerker it is right now
It hadn't occurred to me that you're flying high with new hardware like monitors (I bought similar spec shortly after you did IIRC, what an upgrade) but are still crawling around with mechanical drives. They're fine as storage drives for things like music and normal files, although I can't be hypocritical - I replaced all of mine with SSDs

Try with no intakes and just one exhaust and see what happens
I'm assuming this is a joke post, isn't that dangerous?

I've always been told you should have more intake than exhaust. It creates positive air pressure, which means less air will be pulled in from any other cracks and gaps. If you're using dust filters this means less dust creeping in through non-filter parts.

three. one intake and two exhaust
Is there wisdom behind this I've not been illuminated by? I have 2 in 1 out.
 

twilo99

Member
It hadn't occurred to me that you're flying high with new hardware like monitors (I bought similar spec shortly after you did IIRC, what an upgrade) but are still crawling around with mechanical drives. They're fine as storage drives for things like music and normal files, although I can't be hypocritical - I replaced all of mine with SSDs


I'm assuming this is a joke post, isn't that dangerous?

I've always been told you should have more intake than exhaust. It creates positive air pressure, which means less air will be pulled in from any other cracks and gaps. If you're using dust filters this means less dust creeping in through non-filter parts.


Is there wisdom behind this I've not been illuminated by? I have 2 in 1 out.

No joke, I run only one exhaust fan.

It’s not dangerous, run it and check your temps
 

Soodanim

Member
No joke, I run only one exhaust fan.

It’s not dangerous, run it and check your temps
Maybe not dangerous, but definitely not ideal. Air has to come from somewhere, there's no getting round physics. There must be a key bit of information you're leaving out, like a very open air case.

I'm definitely not trying my case with dust filters without intake fans!

64gigabyteram 64gigabyteram
 

twilo99

Member
Maybe not dangerous, but definitely not ideal. Air has to come from somewhere, there's no getting round physics. There must be a key bit of information you're leaving out, like a very open air case.

I'm definitely not trying my case with dust filters without intake fans!

64gigabyteram 64gigabyteram


Your case has openings at the front.. that’s where your exhaust fan will be pulling air through the case from.

You mentioned that you want a quiet system, I’m the same way, and having less fans is one way to achieve that.
 

Soodanim

Member
Your case has openings at the front.. that’s where your exhaust fan will be pulling air through the case from.

You mentioned that you want a quiet system, I’m the same way, and having less fans is one way to achieve that.
I dunno man, this has baffled me and challenged everything I know. I need to do more research.
 

twilo99

Member
I dunno man, this has baffled me and challenged everything I know. I need to do more research.

It’s per case (no pun intended) basis so just do some testing with your rig and see how it performs.

I’ve been running a single exhaust fan for almost 4 years now and temps are acceptable.

Have you done any undervolting? It can help a lot.
 

Yerd

Member
Run bigger fans and lower rpms.

The day before you brought up fans I just watched a video of some guy doing ridiculous fan orientation experiments.

 
Last edited:

64gigabyteram

Reverse groomer.
Maybe not dangerous, but definitely not ideal. Air has to come from somewhere, there's no getting round physics. There must be a key bit of information you're leaving out, like a very open air case.

I'm definitely not trying my case with dust filters without intake fans!

64gigabyteram 64gigabyteram

my case (coolermaster q300l) has a bit of a reputation for being a hot box so i figured i should put priority on removing hot air than bringing in cooler air

my fans don't feel as effective as they should be. whether this is due to my case's bad cable management (mostly down to the nonmodular psu) or the fans themselves (be quiet pure wings 2, less sure on this front since they have a rep for being good fans) i dont really know

besides, most of the noise on my PC comes from the HDDs and CPU cooler more than anything, i want to get those 2 factors sorted out first before anything else.

the build has a lot of fundamental issues that come from being young and a first time PC and i am just now getting to rectifying them since games ran fine up until now (they still do, my PC works fine. just taking time to make some long-needed upgrades hence all the threads earlier in january)
 

Makoto-Yuki

Gold Member
5090 drivers and/or MSI afterburner is buggy as fuck.

performance is all over the place. i was running at ~2.4GHz but for some reason it's now not going beyond 2.0GHz. reset everything to stock and it's not going above 0.6

i'm getting worse performance than my 4080. wtf.
 

OverHeat

« generous god »
5090 drivers and/or MSI afterburner is buggy as fuck.

performance is all over the place. i was running at ~2.4GHz but for some reason it's now not going beyond 2.0GHz. reset everything to stock and it's not going above 0.6

i'm getting worse performance than my 4080. wtf.
Thx for beta testing 😳
 

Makoto-Yuki

Gold Member
FE runs at <47C with 30% in Cyberpunk with full raytracing. It is on DLSS performance with x4 frame gen though.

x4 frame gen looks good to me. if these are "fake frames" i don't care. so buttery smooth. can't see any artifacting. the only thing i notice is when i'm jumping around there is some motion blur but i might have forgot to turn that off when benchmarking now i think about it lol.

DLSS performance is actually now good to play at with the latest transformer model. There's not much need to go with Balanced/Quality.
 
Last edited:

Soodanim

Member
It’s per case (no pun intended) basis so just do some testing with your rig and see how it performs.

I’ve been running a single exhaust fan for almost 4 years now and temps are acceptable.

Have you done any undervolting? It can help a lot.
I’ll definitely do some undervolting when I next build, but for now I’m just riding my old and at times temperamental build out without too many config changes. To be honest the case fans themselves hardly contribute anything to the noise I hear.

Do you find your system gets dusty quickly? Seems like a big negative of your setup
my case (coolermaster q300l) has a bit of a reputation for being a hot box so i figured i should put priority on removing hot air than bringing in cooler air

my fans don't feel as effective as they should be. whether this is due to my case's bad cable management (mostly down to the nonmodular psu) or the fans themselves (be quiet pure wings 2, less sure on this front since they have a rep for being good fans) i dont really know

besides, most of the noise on my PC comes from the HDDs and CPU cooler more than anything, i want to get those 2 factors sorted out first before anything else.

the build has a lot of fundamental issues that come from being young and a first time PC and i am just now getting to rectifying them since games ran fine up until now (they still do, my PC works fine. just taking time to make some long-needed upgrades hence all the threads earlier in january)
You want a constant stream of concentrated cool air coming in, flowing over/through components with minimal resistance or direction changes, then being taken straight out. Definitely try 2 in 1 out when you get the chance.

Negative pressure causes the air to be pulled in from wherever it can, and that usually means air being cycled that doesn't even touch your components. The video I posted a few up has a good demonstration at 11:00 (but it's all worth watching) that shows how air will be pulled in directly under the rear exhaust when you have more exhaust than intake.
 

manfestival

Member
That feeling when tempted to resell my 4090 and turn a profit on my computer system. I mean I have a pretty beastly gaming laptop but lets be real. it aint no 4090
 

Makoto-Yuki

Gold Member
for those with a 5090 (heh) what voltage is your card running at idle ??

mines is 0.800mV

my card is hitting ~44C outside of games and the card is in 0% fan mode. that's a lot toastier than my 4080.

power consumption actually isn't bad. roughly 25-30W. playing games it stays about that or only goes to low 50's. obviously the fan starts spinning.

i can't remember if it was running this voltage when i first installed it. could be normal but i don't know.
It's okay, but you're legally obligated to put a bionic leg emoji 🦿with any framerate you give from here on to indicate the 270 robot frames to go with your 90 organic homegrown frames
if that's all it takes to get higher frame rate then i'll happily do that! i can't tell any difference between real and fake frames. when i was watching some youtube videos of cyberpunk at x4 i noticed some issues but actually playing the game i can't see anything.
 
Last edited:

lachesis

Member
Been playing around with 9950x which I just installed about a week ago from 7800x3d.
I thought of getting 9950x3d in March - but decided to go with 9950x, since this rig is mainly a workstation, and 9950x should suffice quite nice (and cheaper)
Been running at default settings and it was rather "meh" - that I was happy to have more cores... but it seemed to run pretty hot, and fans would pick up quite randomly to high gear, even after configuring it...

After watching and reading about PBO vs static, and realizing my Asus MB is giving something like 1.375v in all Auto settigns... - I decided to go with 5.2ghz static @ 1.2v with Noctua Nh-D15 G2... and the result has been actually pretty spectacular.
Computer feels much more snappy and responsive compared to 7800x3d - and power consumption and temperature level has been quite satisfactory too - around 42c to 65c during Cinebench.
I did try out 5.0ghz @ 1.1v - and that was even better in terms of temp and overall system noise level as well, so I may stick to that one when the weather gets warmer. :)
Somehow I'm getting pretty satisfying result on 4k gaming with my 4080 Super too, which is a nice bonus.

Now my retired 7800x3d in living room computer that's connected to a old OLED TV is waiting for a GPU.. :( Now eyeing for 9070xt or 5070ti, whichever offers better value proposition and performance. 5070ti though.. sounds like it will be a paper launch again, and 9070xt may not be entirely safe from scalpers too. Never thought getting a new GPU or a new tech stuff would be this hard.
 

Soodanim

Member
Been playing around with 9950x which I just installed about a week ago from 7800x3d.
I thought of getting 9950x3d in March - but decided to go with 9950x, since this rig is mainly a workstation, and 9950x should suffice quite nice (and cheaper)
Been running at default settings and it was rather "meh" - that I was happy to have more cores... but it seemed to run pretty hot, and fans would pick up quite randomly to high gear, even after configuring it...

After watching and reading about PBO vs static, and realizing my Asus MB is giving something like 1.375v in all Auto settigns... - I decided to go with 5.2ghz static @ 1.2v with Noctua Nh-D15 G2... and the result has been actually pretty spectacular.
Computer feels much more snappy and responsive compared to 7800x3d - and power consumption and temperature level has been quite satisfactory too - around 42c to 65c during Cinebench.
I did try out 5.0ghz @ 1.1v - and that was even better in terms of temp and overall system noise level as well, so I may stick to that one when the weather gets warmer. :)
Somehow I'm getting pretty satisfying result on 4k gaming with my 4080 Super too, which is a nice bonus.

Now my retired 7800x3d in living room computer that's connected to a old OLED TV is waiting for a GPU.. :( Now eyeing for 9070xt or 5070ti, whichever offers better value proposition and performance. 5070ti though.. sounds like it will be a paper launch again, and 9070xt may not be entirely safe from scalpers too. Never thought getting a new GPU or a new tech stuff would be this hard.
I only recently learned about static pressure fans. When I got my case I just went with what was included and added another the same. It's definitely something I'll keep an eye out for with my next build, especially if the difference is this substantial. I appreciate the insight, thanks
 

TitanNut88

Member
After further investigation I ended up with this build:

https://es.pcpartpicker.com/list/4CRPQd

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D 4.7 GHz 8-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III 360 56.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX X670E-F GAMING WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory
Storage: Western Digital WD_Black SN850X 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive
Video Card: MSI SUPRIM SOC GeForce RTX 5080 16 GB Video Card
Case: NZXT H7 Flow (2024) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: be quiet! Straight Power 12 1000 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply

My only doubts now are:
  • Motherboard: Asrock X870E Taichi Lite E-ATX (+€72, will it fit in the case?)
  • Case: NZXT H9 Flow Black ATX (+€30, it will solve the MB fitting issue but, is it worth it?)
 

lachesis

Member
I only recently learned about static pressure fans. When I got my case I just went with what was included and added another the same. It's definitely something I'll keep an eye out for with my next build, especially if the difference is this substantial. I appreciate the insight, thanks
Oh, I apologize for not being clear - that what I meant "static" = static OC!
In my case, I meant it by all CPU cores running at 5.2GHz. As far as I know, PBO is better because it can achieve higher single core boost and overal boost clock, but it seems to be running hotter than I want. I would need to go into Precision Boost Overclock setting and play with curve values, which I think I will give a shot when I have a chance.

Static pressure on the other hand for a fan is, yes - indeed important - that some fans have higher static pressure that send air thru the fins! I know Noctua fans are pretty much an overkill, but I do like their services. I had their CPU cooler, and when there's a new version of sockets that need different mounting bracket, all you have to do is reach out and they'll send the conversion kits etc. :)
 

Soodanim

Member
Oh, I apologize for not being clear - that what I meant "static" = static OC!
In my case, I meant it by all CPU cores running at 5.2GHz. As far as I know, PBO is better because it can achieve higher single core boost and overal boost clock, but it seems to be running hotter than I want. I would need to go into Precision Boost Overclock setting and play with curve values, which I think I will give a shot when I have a chance.

Static pressure on the other hand for a fan is, yes - indeed important - that some fans have higher static pressure that send air thru the fins! I know Noctua fans are pretty much an overkill, but I do like their services. I had their CPU cooler, and when there's a new version of sockets that need different mounting bracket, all you have to do is reach out and they'll send the conversion kits etc. :)
Still valuable to know, thank you!
 

Makoto-Yuki

Gold Member
oops...

i hadn't plugged my cable all the way into my 5090 properly. when i set it up i noticed there was a gap and i tried pushing it in but it wasn't moving. just tried it again there and it went in. it's a really tight connection (brand new cable/gpu) but for whatever reason this time it went in further. i took it out to check the pins and everything looks good. so it's not melted or anything.

i've been running this for a week and doing benchmarks/playing games.... i don't know how to look at it. either i'm really lucky OR even if it's not all the way in it's not gonna suddenly catch fire like most people seem to think it will.

fuck sake lol.
 
Last edited:

Makoto-Yuki

Gold Member
oh and i forgot my pc was plugged in and i just yanked out the cable haha. i'm an idiot.

it was in sleep mode so not actually running but still! i don't know if the GPU gets power in sleep mode. didn't cause any issues though.
 

Makoto-Yuki

Gold Member
ran furmark on my 5090FE and checked voltages/temperatures on the cable.

i had set an alert for it to drop below 11.85V in HWinfo but wasn't needed. never went below 12.12V.

checked the temperature on the individual wires while running furmark (max power was ~510W which says it's ~90% TDP. I have an undervolt). max was about 39C. On the connector itself max was 45C. when plugged in the top part of the connector is definitely the hottest. That's where I measured 45C. The other side was about 38-39C about the same as the wires.

definitely no where near the 150C that derbauer or whatever his name is was saying. I'd have liked to get one of those clamps to measure amps but my cable is sleeved so can't check individual wires as there isn't enough slack. only the end of the cable are the individual wires exposed.

side note: this GPU was kicking out ~45C on the front fan and up to about 55C on the rear. My rear exhaust measured ~39C (103F). Max temp of the GPU itself was 69C as reported by Hwinfo.

I did have to remove my glass side panel to use my infrared thermometer so this isn't normal usage but it was the only way i could get somewhat accurate measurements.
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom